10 Ways to Help an Arthritic Dog

When your dog is in pain, you want to help him feel better — fast. Luckily, there are quite a few things you can do to relieve the aches that are an everyday occurrence for dogs with arthritis:

1. Take your dog in for regular checkups so that your veterinarian can monitor your pet’s arthritis and make necessary adjustments to the treatment plan.
2. Getting or keeping your dog slim can help by decreasing the load on his joints. Your best bet: feeding your dog the right amount of high-quality food – we are always happy to help determine what your dog should weigh.
3. Controlled exercise is a must, but make sure you carefully monitor your dog while she plays, walks, or runs. Short amounts of more frequent exercise are better than long periods of exercise.  Low impact exercise such as walking or swimming is better too.
4. As much as possible, keep your dog warm and dry, since cold and damp conditions can aggravate arthritis. Consider investing in a padded dog bed and apply warm compresses to painful joints.
5. Ask us about rehab vets in the area – they can help alleviate pain using cold laser therapy and teach you muscle building exercises you can do at home with your dog.
6. Pain medication, including nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (commonly called NSAIDs), may help relieve pain. Talk to your veterinarian before giving your dog any medication.
7. The are many supplements that can be used to help improve joint mobility and support better joint functioning for dogs with arthritis. (Dasuquin, Adequan and Fish Oil to name a few)
8. Acupuncture isn’t just for people. This painless technique has shown some success in animals suffering from arthritis ask us for a recommendation for an acupuncturist in the area.
9. If your dog’s arthritis is advanced, surgery may be an option. Ask your veterinarian about the pros and cons of surgery and what you can expect.
10. Be sure to take steps to adjust your dogs environment at home. Some things that can help an arthritic dog include: providing soft supportive bedding for his achy joints, using ramps to help a dog get in and out of a car or up to a bed, and putting down carpeting and secure rugs to help him get traction as he walks.

article written by:

Dr. Lorene Rockwell
previously of Wolf Merrick Animal Hospital

How often should my pet be groomed?

I get asked this question a lot! I wish there was one quick answer that would work for everyone, but there is not.  It all depends on your specific pet and how much time you want to spend brushing and combing in between grooming appointments.  I am always happy to answer this question when I am asked.  It is as important to me, as it is to you, to make sure you and your pet gets the best care.  The simple answer is, for the majority of pets a grooming appointment every 6-8 weeks would be appropriate.  However, there are some exceptions to that.  Let me see if I can break it down for you a little.

Short Haired Dogs

Short, straight haired dogs can get away with coming in a little less often, as their hair doesn't tangle and matt up.  They can usually go anywhere from 8-16 weeks, as long as they stay out of the mud and you don't mind them shedding.

Long Haired Dogs

Long, straight haired dogs should be coming in every 8-10 weeks.  Since they have straight hair, they don't tangle as easily.  But if you wait too long, you may be surprised to find there is matting close to the surface which will most likely have to be clipped out. 

Curly Haired Dogs

Curly haired dogs must be groomed every 4-6 weeks.  A lot of people are drawn to the curly pups because they come with a promise of little to no shedding.  This is a deceiving  promise because, the fact is every dog sheds.  The reason curly dogs don't appear to shed is because the curls catch and hold the hair, while straight hairs fall out to the floor.  This is why it is so extremely important to have a regular grooming schedule to make sure that hair is brushed out and removed before it causes matting.  

I absolutely hate when I have to tell a client that their pet is matted and all their beautiful curls must be clipped off.  Part of being a good groomer is being able to educate and explain to the client why this happened and more importantly how to avoid it happening in the future.  I will always take the time to go over which tools work best, demonstrate how to brush and comb properly, and set up an specific grooming schedule geared towards your pet.  

Cats

For our feline friends, they tend to do most of the grooming work themselves. There are some who can't self-groom due to age or weight and need the help of a professional grooming.  

For short haired cats, matting is not usually an issue. Shedding can become overwhelming for some pet parents. A nice bath and Furminator treatment can do wonders to cut down on shedding. Cats can benefit from this every 4-6 months. 

Long haired cats usually require some combing to help them keep up on their long coat. I usually see long haired cats every 3 months or so to keep them matt free and maintained. Again, if you are unable to brush at home in between groomings a little more often is safer to prevent severe matting. 

At-Home Care

Another huge factor in how long you can go between grooming appointments is how much work you put in at home in between appointments.   You would never leave your hair salon and not brush your hair again until your next appointment, but most people don't think twice about that when it comes to their pets.  I never fault anyone for not having being able to brush their dog every day, or even every week.  But, you need to be honest with yourself, and honest with your groomer.  Life is crazy busy and hectic for most of us.  I'm sure brushing your pet is at the very bottom of your to-do list and that is OK!  It just means you have to get to the groomer sooner rather than later.

The tools you use at home make a big difference as well.  I am always happy to show you exactly which brushes and combs I use on your pet.  Most people use a slicker or pin brush at home.  This is a great tool for getting rid of undercoat and small tangles, but it does not do the job alone.  A comb is a necessity and something most people don't think about using.  The slicker/pin brush is going to fluff up the top layer of hair, especially on curly pets.  This gives the illusion that the hair is all brushed out and free of knots and tangles.  Unfortunately, without using a comb to double check after brushing, you may not see that close to the skin there are some small knots hiding beneath that fluffy top. The longer those knots stay in, the bigger they become and before you know it, you've got a matted pet.  

Scheduling

It is also very helpful to schedule your appointments in advance.  If you set up your next appointment while you are checking out, we are able to make sure you are back in a timely manner.  Especially as we near the holidays, groomers schedules are going to fill up fast!  If you wait until you notice your pet is really due to make an appointment you may find the groomer is booked, sometimes a week or two in advance.  And that time you have to wait may make the difference between being able to brush the pet out or having to dematt and clip the hair down short.  And, if you're anything like me, time flies by without realizing how many weeks it's been.  I know I had a huge list of things to do this summer and it seems like I blinked and here we are heading into fall.   

Dogs that go swimming, frequent the dog parks or go to doggy daycare are also in need of grooming more often because they get wet in dirty water and wrestle around with their friends.

There is also an option to come back to the groomer in between the need for a hair cut.  I have some clients that come as often as every other week, just for a bath and brush out.  For people who are unable to brush and comb at home for whatever reason, this is a great choice to ensure the pets hair can stay clean and tangle free.   

For specific questions regarding your pet, please feel free to call, email, or set up an appointment with me anytime.

article written by:
Jessica Karlos, Professional Groomer
Companion Animal Hospitals Vernon Hills and Mount Prospect

  

Does my dog have arthritis?

With the changing weather, you may soon start to notice that your older dog seems a little “stiff” in the joints.  Arthritis is a progressive degeneration of the joints often seen in older dogs. It may start with subtle signs, such as your dog is no longer willing to jump up on the furniture or into the car, or maybe they are hesitant to use the stairs. You may also notice your pet seems very stiff when they first wake up, but then seems to loosen up as the day progresses. Cold or wet weather can make these changes more apparent.

If any of the above sounds like your pet, a veterinarian can help you determine if it is arthritis that’s bothering your pet. While we can’t undo your pet’s arthritis, the great news is that there are a number of things we can do to slow it down and keep your pup comfortable! The following is just some of the ways we can work to keep your pet comfortable in the face of arthritis:

1.  The biggest thing is weight loss! Excess weight puts excess strain on your pet’s joints. Ask your veterinarian about your pet’s ideal weight and how many calories per day your pet should be consuming to help reach that weight.
2. Dietary supplements, such as fish oil and glucosamine/chondroitin, can help with decreasing inflammation in joints. These can be obtained through your veterinarian (remember that human over the counter products were designed for people, not cats and dogs, so dose adjustment is needed!). You may also find these ingredients in some senior diets.
3. Anti-inflammatories, such a as Rimadyl or Deramaxx, are great methods of controlling arthritis. These medications help to lessen the inflammatory processes associated with arthritis. These medications can be used short or long term. With long term use, your veterinarian will likely recommend periodic blood work to check internal organ function.
4. Injections such as Pentosan or polysulfated glycosaminoglycan (PSGAGs) can be given to your pet weekly initially and then every month or so as determined by your veterinarian. These injections have anti-inflammatory properties and also help to stimulate production of hyaluronic acid (which helps to lubricate your pet’s joints).
5. Pain medication may also be incorporated into treatment protocols for pets who are not responding well enough to the above.

If you are concerned your pet is suffering from arthritis, reach out to your veterinarian. We want your pets to be happy and comfortable as they age!

article written by:

Dr. Erin Walsh

Companion Animal Hospital, Mount Prospect, IL

Ultrasound

Ultrasonography is an important medical imaging technique used in humans and pets alike.  Companion Animal Hospital is happy to provide this imaging option as it plays an important role in the diagnosis and treatment of many medical conditions.  Ultrasound uses high frequency sound waves and their echoes. The technique is similar to the echolocation used by bats, whales and dolphins, as well as SONAR used by submarines. 

An ultrasound exam is a way of looking inside your pet’s body (liver, kidneys, and intestines) without having to perform surgery.  The ultrasound machine transmits high-frequency (1 to 5 megahertz) sound pulses into your pet’s body using a probe.  As these sound waves travel through the body, they hit a boundaries between tissues (for example boundaries between fluid and soft tissue, soft tissue and bone).  When hitting these boundaries, some sound waves are immediately reflected back to the probe, while others travel on further until they reach another boundary and get reflected.  These reflected waves are sensed by the probe and this information is sent to the machine.  The machine calculates the distance from the probe to the tissue or organ (boundaries) using the speed of sound in tissue and the time of the each echo’s return.  The machine’s screen uses this information to form a two dimensional picture your veterinarian has been trained to interpret.   

                

Ultrasound is a valuable diagnostic tool in veterinary practice.  It does a great job of evaluating tissue architecture.  Loss of normal tissue architecture is seen in many diseases, most notably cancer.  Other examples of when ultrasound is used in veterinary medicine include:

• Early diagnosis of pregnancy
• Diagnosis of bladder or kidney stones- even those that can’t be seen on radiographs (x-rays)
• Measuring thickness of organs such as intestines and the bladder
• Echocardiography is ultrasound of the heart and is extremely important in the diagnosis of heart disease.  Recommendations for treatment are heavily based on the ultrasound findings.
• Color Doppler can be used to look at blood flow to different organs in the body.

Ultrasonography is an important part of the diagnosis of many conditions we see in pets.  Please let us know if you have any questions about this imaging modality.  We would be happy to discuss its benefits and whether it may be right for your pet!

article written by:

Derek Williamson, DVM

Companion Animal Hospital Vernon Hills and Crawford Animal Hospital

Cat Introductions: Helpful Hints

When the time comes to add a cat to your feline family, planning for a proper cat introduction will help promote success.  Could you imagine if a person came into your home announcing themselves as a new roommate and sat in your favorite chair and commandeered the TV remote?  Sometimes when we bring a new cat home and let the cats “work it out”, we’re creating a similar stressful situation.  While the cats might work it out on their own, we can certainly decrease the chances of problems and make the process easier on everyone.  Here are some tips for a gradual introduction.

• At first the cats should only be allowed to smell and hear each other, not see each other.  Confine your new cat to one room of your house with its own litter box, bowls, toys, etc. Place towels with the scent of the other cat (maybe one they've slept on) underneath each cat’s food bowl and on resting places.  Rub the cat’s toys with the scent of the other cat.  The goal is to have the other cat's scent associated with good things.
• After your new cat is comfortable in her room (maybe after several hours or more likely, several days), switch places for an hour or so (confine your resident cat(s) in the room and allow the new cat out to explore the rest of the house).  Do not allow the cats to see each other in this exchange.  This will help the cats to become more familiar with each other without the stress of confrontation.
• Give favorite treats close to the door of the cat’s room (with one cat on each side of the closed door).  This helps to associate good things with the presence of the other cat.  Try slipping one end of a toy underneath the door to encourage the cats to play with each other under the door.
• Repeat the above steps until there is no hissing, growling or fleeing and all cats seem curious about the cat on the other side of the door.
• Next, wedge the door open about an inch with doorstops.  This allows the cats to see each other, paw if they want to, but they can get away from each other safely if they chose. 
• Then let the cats out together.  When they are first out together, keep the meeting short, and continue to offer food, treats, toys and petting. If any hissing or conflicts occur, distract the cats into another activity - dangle a favorite toy, offer food (use the sound of the can opener to "call" the resident cat to the kitchen), etc.
• Supervise them, not allowing them to be alone together, until they are consistently demonstrating friendly behaviors with each other for at least one week.
• Punishment is not helpful.  It doesn't create the association of "good things" with the other's presence and adds stress to a stressful situation.

As always, if you have any questions or need help with a cat introduction, please call us.

article written by:

Sheila Newenham, DVM

Companion Animal Hospital Mount Prospect

Your Unique Feline Friend

Anyone who shares their home with a cat knows that they are a unique creature.  While every cat has its own personality, there are some underlying innate behavioral characteristics that make them decidedly different from dogs (and people). 

Dogs and people are “pack species” and have evolved as group hunters of large prey.  The cat is an “independent species” and has evolved as a solitary hunter of small prey.  The cat is also a prey item for larger animals (such as dogs).  Being independent by nature is what makes most cats happier with interaction on their terms.  Cats like to feel like they are in control of their situation, therefore changes to their routine or surroundings is challenging for them.  They do not respond to force.

It is important to understand the basics of cat behavior so that we can provide a home that they feel content and safe in.  Knowing how they would use a natural environment helps us to simulate that environment in our homes.  Not only does this make a happy cat that you can live amicably with, but it reduces their stress and anxiety.  It has been found that stress can play a role in illness, particularly urinary tract related illness, in the cat.  Without the proper provisions, normal cat behavior can be problematic in a home. 

From Kitty’s perspective:

1. I want my space.  Have a separate area for food, water, and elimination.  No one should sneak up on me when I am eating or eliminating.  Avoid placement near appliances or vents that could startle me.
2. Litter pan happiness.  The rule of thumb for litter pans is to have one pan per cat plus one (2 cats = 3 pans).  Place a pan on each level of the home.  Most, but not all cats like fine, unscented, clean litter in a large, open pan.  Finding my pan should not be a journey or dangerous adventure.  It shouldn’t be gross.  Experiment with side by side boxes to determine preferences if you are making a change. 
3. Let me hunt. I will hunt birds, bugs, or rodents, but I might have a favorite.  Experiment with toys to find which I prefer.  Do not use fingers or toes as toys.  Be careful of toys with strings attached or toys that are falling apart.  If small parts or a string could be eaten by me, the toy is no longer safe.  (Bugs= lasers, hard kibble, Rodents= balls, furry mice toys on the ground, Birds= feathered toys, suspended toys)
4. … Or let me sleep.  In nature, I am hunting as many as 20 prey items per day.  Between hunts, I rest.  I do not have a pattern to my sleep/wake cycle as my person does and therefore can be more active than my person might like at night.  Adding some play during the day can help to keep me quieter at night.   
5. Let me find my safe place up high. I want to spend my vulnerable sleeping time where nothing will surprise or hurt me.  In nature, I am a prey item for other animals.  I often have a preference for being elevated or hidden away when I am resting.  Perches also provide a means to watch the action from above, check out the outdoors, and satisfy my curiosity without feeling at risk.
6. Scratch that.  I may scratch horizontal or vertical surfaces.  I may prefer sisal, cardboard, or another substrate.  Experiment until you find the favorite.  I scratch to hone my claws, but also to scent mark and stretch.  My scratching areas should be readily available. 

This is short article is only a brief summary of the nuances of cat behaviors.  The best resource for all homes with cats is the website dedicated to Indoor Pets from The Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine.  https://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats 

article written by:

Laura Rau-Holl, DVM

Wolf Merrick Animal Hospital, Kenosha, WI